How do tsunamis become so much taller when they reach the shore?
Quick Answer
A tsunami grows in height as it enters shallow water because its energy is compressed into a smaller depth. That is why a wave that is barely noticeable offshore can flood coastal land.
The Full Story
Tsunamis are usually caused by sudden seafloor movement, often from undersea earthquakes, landslides, or volcanic collapses. In deep ocean water, they can travel at jet-plane speeds, but with low wave height and very long wavelength. As the wave reaches shallow water, it slows down and its energy is forced upward, making the wave grow taller. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami and the 2011 Tōhoku tsunami in Japan showed how devastating these waves can be. Some tsunamis also arrive as a series of waves rather than a single crest, which is why people are warned not to return too soon.
Key Facts
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